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Holne Chase Restaurant

Home Page » Things To See & Do » Local Food » Holne Chase Restaurant

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Description:

The ‘chase’ - a theme apparent in the sporting prints decorating this white painted Victorian house overlooking the Dart Valley - can be joined by anybody wanting to fish, ride or shoot, and the ‘country-house party’ feel is never far away. The hotel uses vegetables, fruits, herbs and saladings from the walled garden, baking bread in-house, and taking advantage of such local materials as fish, game and West Country cheeses.

A country-house strand is evident in the cooking too: in quail galantine stuffed with oyster mushrooms, and in slices of tender venison arranged in a pyramid over a base of crisp bubble and squeak. Fish has impressed, from tagliatelle with mussels, prawns and just-seared scallops, to accurately timed red mullet fillets spread with herbs, built into a tower and topped with ‘a splendidly mad-looking thatch of crisp onion shreds’. Vegetables are integral - glazed onions and lightly vinegared beetroot cubes with venison., for example - and within ins own parameters the food can be both gently ‘innovative and interesting’.

Among desserts, iced nougat with mango and caramel has provided a pleasing contrast between astringency and sweetness. Service is ‘polished without being pompous’ and the Hugheses oversee a friendly operation. Wines are largely supplied by St James’s merchants Berry Bros & Rudd, so it is no surprise to see high-quality bins from the traditional French regions in the majority. A quartet of Vega Sicilia Unicos and a small selection from the New World broaden the appeal. House wines are priced between £11.25 and £12.90 a bottle (£3/3.50 a glass).